Angela Rippon’s River Cruises - Episode 4

“With Cambodia behind me, I continue along this South East Asian waterway aboard my ship, Scenic Spirit… this river is alive with traffic. This is going to be a fascinating country to explore and discover… so let’s get started."

An Giang

We meet Angela on the Sun Deck of her 5-star Scenic river ship, Scenic Spirit, as they dock in An Giang province. She’s picked up for a short sampan ride, during which she enjoys witnessing the mix of old traditional fishing villages and urban, contemporary communities – inspiring her intrigue for how Vietnam manages to bridge the past with the present. Once she arrives in Tan Chau, she is picked up for a “white-knuckle” ride to the spectacular tranquillity of Tra Su Cajaput Forest.  

Reduced to a contaminated wasteland after the war, this spectacular 2,000-acre labyrinth of waterways is an incredible example of the country’s rebirth in the face of adversity. Brimming with biodiversity and especially wonderful during the ‘green season’, Angela enjoys a view from a rest hut, before a picturesque walk over a mesmerising bamboo bridge. With her tour guide, she boards a sampan and dons a traditional conical hat, which, she later learns, is to avoid being hit by bird poo!   

A sanctuary to over 70 species of birds, they sail through lotus plants, enjoying the serenity of the water in contrast to the busy urban life. They pass locals, and she bids them a friendly “xin chào” – hello in Vietnamese. From the boat, they witness native cormorants, egrets, and herons in the trees – all thriving in this “magical forest”.  

“I can feel the deep sense of optimism here, sustainable eco-tourism to heal the land and boost local livelihoods. A quiet triumph and lasting legacy… I can safely say, I’m already bewitched.” 

The following day, we join Angela back on board as Scenic Spirit glides the Mekong to Sa Dec. Again, we find her enjoying the buzz of daily life from the Sun Deck, cup of tea in hand.  

On board she meets her “new friend and guide” for what she describes as a “Vietnamese coffee ceremony”. They enjoy a special chat about the symbolism of coffee and how a sip brings the harmony of life. While the coffee brews, they discuss war and whether it dominates the thoughts of the old and the young in the country. She explains that her father fought for Northern Vietnam, and while that brings immense pride to her, she would rather the Vietnamese people be remembered for their smiles, friendliness, and warm welcomes, which she hopes tourists will share with their loved ones back home. By this point, the coffee is ready to taste – they ‘cheers’ with the traditional “Một, hai, ba, dô!”

Sa Dec

“Sa Dec is often described as an overlooked city in the region. So I’m keen to discover what the people who stay away are missing.” 

Boosted by that strong coffee, Angela ventures off on her own to visit the city of Sa Dec for a more intimate take on Vietnamese life than the more crowded cities. Armed with half a million dong, she feels flush as she explores the vibrant market, selling local delicacies, fresh flowers and textiles – amused by the number of motorbikes swiftly winding through the crowds.  

She describes it as a sensory assault – a whirlwind of noise, colour, and variety. From the live animals to the wet markets, it’s something that, she admits, takes a little getting used to. But she’s struck by how deeply rooted it all feels in tradition, making the experience both authentic and well worth a visit. 

A quick but heavy rain shower signals the end of her market visit. But yet another magical experience awaits around the corner.  

Built in 1895, the Huỳnh Thủy Lê ancient house was the former home of Mr Huỳnh Thủy Lê, and the setting for the famous affair between his 23-year-old son and a young French girl, Maguerite Duras –  an ill-fated love story which would later be made into a film, L’Amant – or The Lover. Now a museum, she meets the curator to learn the story of the house and its spectacular interior, which is elaborately decorated with carved teak wood, gold leaf, and patterned bricks imported from France.   

Tan Phong

Having travelled a further 70 nautical miles, it’s another early start for Angela, who is met at the ship by a local sampan to pick her up and take her to Tan Phong island. En route, she notices the excessive water hyacinths and describes them as ‘pests’ to the people who work on the river. However, she soon has first-hand experience of how resourceful the local people can be in turning this seemingly problematic weed into a profitable business.   

She visits a local workshop to meet the artisans who intricately weave hyacinth fibres to make bags, hats, fans and more. Trying her hand at herself, she explains how she feels it connects her to the river’s story and finds it “profoundly satisfying”. It’s then that she is gifted a bracelet which visibly moves her – “I’m really touched by that”.  

“As I return to my ship, Tan Phong’s quiet strength stays with me. The people’s resilience and resourcefulness… that craft a living beside and with the Mekong.” 

It’s the final day of Angela’s Mekong river cruise before she sets off for Ho Chi Minh City by land. And what better way to start than with a relaxing stretching class on the Sun Deck. She joins a group of fellow guests and then enjoys more inspiring conversation. A familiar theme from the guests is how the trip has forged an amazing connection between them, the country, and its people, and how it’s helped them understand how they live as a community. Then it’s time to enjoy a delicious buffet breakfast to recharge their batteries for yet another spectacular day.

My Tho

“Wow, I’m standing in what is literally the rice bowl of Eastern Asia.”  

After docking in My Tho, Angela heads off in search of the iconic paddy fields, vital to Vietnam as the cornerstone of the economy. She meets an expert guide among the fronds, who teaches her all about the ancient craft of rice production. He explains that every part of the rice plant is used from top to bottom, with even the husks being turned into MDF, eliminating the need for deforestation. 

She has the rare opportunity to meet the farmer who has worked her land for more than 30 years. Together, they discuss the hard work involved in growing, harvesting, and processing her crops, as well as the ways modern technology has transformed the industry. Angela is in awe of her skill and dedication to a process that has survived for 4,000 years.  

And just like that, it’s back to the ship’s Sun Deck for one final view over the majestic Mekong River – the most perfect of spots for a bit of reflection.  

“I’m just getting my last evening view of the Mekong River… It’s made me realise that taking a river journey is a fascinating way in which to see a country, because the river is our guide. It’s the river that has decided where we go, what we see, and how we see it… and we have seen so many facets to the character of this nation.”