Angela Rippon’s River Cruises - Episode 3

Cambodia

“What a special start to my trip, and a wonderful glimpse into Cambodia’s past.”  

We meet Angela at 4am on a wet morning in Siem Reap as she heads to Angkor Wat for sunrise. A former journalist, she’s no stranger to an early start, but this one feels different. By torchlight, umbrella in hand, she walks towards the temple to the chorus of hundreds of frogs. 

“And there it is, that’s the magic moment we’ve been waiting for. The sun rising over the temple at Angkor Wat.”  

Overwhelmed by the scale of the ancient complex, Angela’s guided tour of the ruins prompts reflection on what she expected Cambodia to be like, based on her reporting during the Khmer Rouge’s rise in the 1970s. Described by her guide as “the soul of Cambodia”, he explains that it took 37 years and 300,000 people to build it. They explore the craftsmanship, both indoors and outdoors – something she is so mesmerised by that she feels compelled to reach out and touch it, only to be quickly told that’s forbidden.

Kampong Cham 

“What a special start to my trip, and a wonderful glimpse into Cambodia’s past.”  

It’s time for Angela to meet her 5-star Scenic ship, Scenic Spirit, in Kampong Cham. After settling into her elegant suite and taking in the sweeping river views from her private Scenic Sun Lounge, she heads out with two fellow guests from Canada to explore one of Cambodia’s most charming riverside cities. With its faded French colonial facades, bustling market stalls and easy-going pace, Kampong Cham quickly draws them in — before they know it, they’re joining locals for an impromptu riverside aerobics class. 

Having worked up an appetite, it’s on to the market in search of authentic Cambodian street food. Angela reluctantly tries a cricket, and another street food staple made up of egg and butter, before heading back to the ship for a well-deserved rest.   

Another early morning start invites an exciting excursion by remork – similar to a Tuk Tuk – to explore more of Kampong Cham. Accompanied by yet another fantastic guide, they visit the rural island of Koh Pen, located in the middle of the Mekong and famous for its stilted houses, designed to protect the buildings from flooding. Angela notes how peaceful and serene it feels as they pass local businesses and houses. With many of the homes having their own plantations in the garden, growing sugar cane, corn, bananas, and tobacco, this small, self-sufficient community relies very little on the larger cities and supermarkets for provisions.  

Here, Angela is treated to an unforgettable experience as she meets the village’s former chief, who welcomes her into the home he shares with his family. She gains a fascinating insight into the Mekong’s vital role in the region’s ecosystem, with its nutrient-rich waters allowing the land to flourish during the wet season. This becomes evident during a tour of the garden, where she sees pomelos, dragon fruit and kaffir limes growing alongside sweet potatoes, ginger and string beans. 

Following this truly heartwarming encounter, Angela’s first-hand experience of rural life gives her a deeper understanding of why the Mekong is considered the lifeblood of the communities along its banks. Roughly translating as “mother of water”, it’s a fitting name for a river that sustains so much life. 

Back on board Scenic Spirit, Angela enjoys a cocktail on the Sun Deck with some guests. The river breeze and passing landscapes are the perfect setting for making meaningful connections with like-minded people. They all agree that the kind nature and true spirit of community are what draw them to this fascinating country.    

“From the top deck, this incredible river tells a story all of its own.” 

As the ship makes its 50-mile journey from Kampong Cham to Angkor Ban, Angela enjoys more time on the Sun Deck, this time witnessing life as it happens around her. She notes that she can hear monks being called to prayer. “There’s always something happening, there’s always something to see.”

Angkor Ban

In Agkor Ban, a place where tourists come to marvel at centuries-old homes, experience authentic blessings in temple complexes, and soak in the welcoming nature of the local people, Angela ponders the region’s darker associations – the Khmer Rouge’s ‘reign of terror’ – before meeting a young journalist, Rosie, to enjoy stories of the past and the future through her eyes. This is particularly poignant for her because, as she explains, she never had the opportunity to speak to people who were directly affected. They discuss the resilience of the people in rebuilding the country after such a horrific past.  

“It’s why stops like this are so important for us cruise guests, because spending time here offers us a genuine, authentic connection. It’s a glimpse of real life.” 

Then it’s back on board again to begin sailing to Koh Dach – as she’s waved off by a local family.

Koh Dach 

On Silk Island, just a 15-minute Tuk-Tuk ride away, Angela visits a local workshop that produces Cambodia’s signature golden silk, woven from threads spun by the rare golden silkworm. Surrounded by mulberry trees, a favourite cuisine of the silkworm, she learns first-hand how they transform a cocoon into silken thread. Watching in awe, she is again mesmerised by the craftsmanship. In the shop, she bumps into Scenic guests who talk highly of the Cambodian people and how wonderful it is that the locals share their lives with tourists. Angela selects a stunning blue fabric to take home and have made into a jacket as a reminder of her time here.

“We’ve seen just wooded banks all along the Mekong so far, but now look, suddenly we’re just sailing into Phnom Penh, the capital, but the forest is tall buildings, skyscrapers. This is modern Cambodia.” 

65 nautical miles later, Scenic Spirit arrives in Phnom Penh at night. So it’s time to rest before yet another exhilarating day.

Phom Penh 

After a restful sleep in her Scenic Slumber Bed, Angela has the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to visit Phnom Tamao Wildlife Rescue Centre. She meets two team members who teach her about the work they’re doing to change the future of the endangered pangolin, and even has the opportunity to hold one – to her delight.  

“It’s just wonderful to see how the country is really training its young people to respect and preserve the wildlife of this country. The care they’re taking to preserve their past and ensure it still has a future.” 

On the final day of the first leg of Angela’s Scenic river cruise through South East Asia, she spends another full day in Phnom Penh, visiting Cambodia’s spiritual heart, Wat Ounalom Monastery. Home to more than 100 monks, the monastery houses the sleuk rith manuscripts, palm leaf texts that chronicle the history of Cambodia and the Khmer people. Angela is fortunate to meet the director of their preservation, who guides her through centuries-old records, including temple floor plans and the manuscript of the late king’s father. He also explains how his team is digitising these invaluable documents to safeguard them for future generations. 

And before she leaves, she receives a blessing from a monk, something she describes as daunting because it is such an honour. He gives her a red string bracelet, which traditionally offers good luck, protection and health to the wearer. A wonderful moment and “privilege” for Angela, they then enjoy some light-hearted conversation and laugh about how he recognises her from social media.  

And with that, her time in Cambodia is over.  

“I think the one thing I’m really going to take with me is the memory of a nation full of people who smile, who are so welcoming. It’s that graciousness that I’m going to carry with me in my heart as we leave.”